Every Day Is Sunday at Catherine Lombardi
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The traditional Sunday dinners once prepared by Mark Pascal's grandmother, Catherine Lombardi, are re- created with flair every night at a new restaurant bearing her name.
Of course, the surroundings have more panache than the Brooklyn apartment where she presided over the kitchen for decades. Pascal is one of the owners of the stylish Stage Left, located downstairs from Catherine Lombardi. While Stage Left specializes in dishes such as sumac and espresso-crusted venison, or chilled Maine lobster with vanilla tarragon emulsion, Catherine Lombardi specializes in classic Italian food. From macaroni with gravy ($18.95) to osso bucco ($26.95,) however, it's far from standard issue. Executive chef Anthony Bucco oversees both Stage Left and Catherine Lombardi, bringing the same meticulous approach to both. The chef de cuisine is J.R. Belt, previously sous chef at Stage Left.
But the real guiding force upstairs is Catherine Lombardi's spirit. The warmly elegant dining room, which has two fireplaces, is done in brilliant red, with eye-catching tasseled glass lighting fixtures from Italy. The walls are hung with photos of Catherine Lombardi and her relatives; vintage shots of weddings, first Communions and celebrations that make patrons feel like part of the family.
Pascal believes his grandmother would approve of the way the room is decorated, with one exception: he notes with just a hint of a smile that she probably would have put plastic covers over all the furniture.
The meals are simple but effective, "the kind of food you grew up with," Pascal says. And in a state with a great Italian heritage, there are a lot of other people who fondly remember leisurely Sunday dinners replete with rib-sticking ziti, sweet sausage and creamy polenta.
The stalwart cuisine has taste, strength and virtue, the kinds of qualities that always saw Catherine Lombardi's relatives through the week. The mozzarella used in so many dishes is fresh-made, and the prosciutto is hand-sliced. The marinara is, of course, excellent.
Specialties include the red and black meatballs ($7.95), which re quire a bit of explanation. The black meatballs are fresh from the pan, as they were at Grandma Catherine's, retaining their own integrity by being put in the gravy (sauce) just before serving. The red meatballs, on the other hand, spend longer in the marinara, both adding flavor to it and taking on tomato tanginess in a culinary symbiosis.
For starters, don't miss shrimp scampi ($14.95), with perfectly cooked shrimp nestled in a sauce that has just enough garlic to amplify the taste of the shellfish. Another appetizer, eggplant rollatini ($9.95) with ricotta, mozzarella, basil and marinara, is a tribute to the way Catherine Lombardi put it together. Pascal said she would salt the eggplant, wrap it in brown paper and press it overnight under a heavy book to squeeze out the water. That paves the way for a crispy crust once it is coated with breadcrumbs and Parmesan, be cause there's no excess moisture to make the vegetable soggy.
The same earthiness is found in the chicken Scarpariello ($24.95). Patrons may specify whether they prefer white meat or dark meat (they also can have both if they like) to go with the sausage, peppers and lemon that add flavor and substance. Another old favorite is the rib-eye steak pizzaiola ($29.95), decked with peppers and onions.
If you're looking for something on a higher plane, that would be the black bass ($25.95) stuffed with brandade (a blend of salt cod with olive oil and milk), len tils and asparagus. Or for big spenders there are mile-high veal chops at market price. One ver sion is roasted, stuffed with arugula and pancetta and parsley. The other is seared, roasted and heaped with pancetta, cremini mushrooms and polenta.
Catherine Lombardi shares Stage Left's storied global wine list. It's expensive; figure you'll spend $10 for a glass of wine, and probably $30 a bottle if you're trying to hold the line on costs, though you can, of course, go much, much higher.
Many of the desserts are the types of things you'd expect - tiramisu ($9.95), mascarpone cheesecake ($9.95) and zabaglione with fruit ($9.95), all done beautifully. But there's fresh-made gelato and sorbetto ($9.95). Try the apple cider sorbetto if it's available. Mrs. Palmisano's cookie plate ($5.95) is a real treat, enough for everyone at the table to share and still have some left to bring home. The only out-of-character dessert is Stage Left's molten Valrhona chocolate cake ($9.95), but who can argue with its temptation quotient?
There is a steep flight of red-carpeted stairs at the entrance. An elevator is expected to be operational some time in January, so call before you come to ensure it's working if you need a lift to get to the top floor. [Note: Our elevator is fully operational.]
Once there, you'll find you can have it all at Catherine Lombardi, comfort food in a beautiful setting, served with both nostalgia and a bit of excitement. Grandma would approve.
--Cody Kendall
(Sunday, January 8th, 2006)